Mae Kwan

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Egg In A Hole

By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 

 
 
 
When I was young, my friend's mom use to make us a breakfast of pan fried bread in butter, with an egg in the middle. We thought it was the coolest thing ever, and we always felt so special eating it. But as with any dish, there are tons of recipes and variations. This breakfast favorite of ours has many names…as it turned out…
It's been called a frog in the pond, bird's nest, birdie in a basket, holey toast, bull's eye toast, one-eyed jack, egg in a window, egg on a raft, man on a raft, paddy egg, castle'd egg, special egg, knothole egg, one eyed Egyptian sandwich, eggy bread, "eggs with hats on top" and "eggy in the basket, and it goes on …

It made a notable appearance in the film Moonstruck, and several recipes for the dish have since been named "Moonstruck Eggs". The dish also appeared in the 2006 V for Vendetta film as "eggy in the basket". I'm sure it has made a mention or appearance in many other films.

In seeing Moonstruck, at the time, I remember those mornings at my friend's house as if it were yesterday.

Funny, how something so simple can spark such wondrous memories - they were certainly happy moments.

Recently, my friends and I were in Woodstock for a weekend getaway. We bought an enormous sheet of focaccia and a giant loaf of whole wheat rustic country bread, when breakfast arrived … we all wanted egg in a hole. An all time favorite shared with friends and family bring back old memories and is bound to create new ones.

Try this fun dish with the kids, and get creative. Most people think of egg as a breakfast food, but trust me - this is great for lunch, brunch or even dinner - as your main course or as a side. Here is my variation…

 
 
Egg in a Hole My Way …
 
 
Ingredients:
Egg
Focaccia (bread of your choice)
Olive Oil
Butter
Truffle Butter
Salt
Pepper
 
 
Use a cookie cutter - or a glass and press out a hole in the center of the bread.
Heat a skillet (preferably non-stick) over medium heat
Melt the butter and add the bread
Fry the bread (if using a thicker cut of bread, flatten with a spatula) for about 2-3 minutes.
Flip the bread
Break an egg gently into the hole (careful not to break the yolk)
Season with salt and pepper
Cook for another 2-3 minutes, or until the egg sets
You can flip it again or cook until your desired doneness
(2-3 minutes total for runny eggs and 5 minutes total for firm eggs)
Remove from the pan and spread on the truffle butter and serve

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Tapping into a wealth of tapas in Harlem


By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 

 
 
 
The history of tapas, dates back to the Middle Ages, when field workers would take a small meal with them into the fields, meant to be eaten as they worked, or on a short break.

Although details are not confirmed, some say tapas was born when due to an illness, the Spanish King, Alfonso the Wise, had to take small bites of food with some wine between meals and once he recovered from this illness, his royal decree was that wine served in any of the inns and taverns must be accompanied by something to eat.

 
   
Another story involved empty plates, when bartenders would cover wine glasses with small plates to protect the drink from fruit flies, then eventually, they covered the glasses with a slice of ham - which appealed to their customers, so bar owners began varying tapas on these empty plates and that was how, some say, how tapas started.

Many countries have comparable tiny starter-size dishes, like antipasto in Italy, hors d'oeuvres in France, dim sum in China,

and meze in Greece or Turkey, but tapas are more than just finger foods and appetizers.

A tapa is not a particular type of food, but rather a way of eating it - and this way of eating small portions of food, where the only restriction is the chef's imagination, is really relaxing, fun and informal!

Spain is nearly all surrounded by water, so seafood and shellfish plays a huge part in the cuisine and the selection of tapas served really depends on the region of Spain.

   
In Harlem Floridita Tapas, is without a doubt, really great food and atmosphere. Although not indicative of which region their tapas were inspired - there are over 40 to choose from. The staff is ultra friendly, its great for intimate dining and perfect for group gatherings.

The décor is mature, (dark wooden bar, tables and chairs) - a bit tavern-like with an Old World charm. With six types of sangria, a full bar, wine list, fabulous tapas, there really is no way to be disappointed, plus there is live entertainment (flamenco dancers) on Fridays.

Our waiter was really knowledgeable of the menu and very attentive. It was really difficult to decide from all that they offer. Their tapas range from $4-$16. They also have the option to choose 5 for $14.95 / add a half pitcher of Sangria for an extra $10.

So, you can just imagine our dilemma. Our waiter was very gracious, and we finally decided on 10 different tapas to share - and we had a salad as well - you must have your greens daily!

Chorizo a la Plancha (grilled Spanish sausage), Chorizo Salteado con Cebolla (cured Spanish sausage sauteed with onions), Calamar Frito (fried calamari), Gambas Al Ajillo (shrimp sauteed in garlic and virgin olive oil), Pulpo Vinagreta (octopus in a vinaigrette), Gambas a la Plancha (grilled shrimp), Croquetas de Pollo (chicken croquettes), Chicharron de Bacalao (fried chunk of fresh cod), Scallops a la Plancha (grilled scallops) and Chicharron de Pollo (fried chicken chunks).

I have no complaints about any of them - although I am not a huge fan of cod…they were all delicious!

Believe me once you start eating tapas, you won't stop until you're full - and if your eyes are bigger than your tummy (like mine) you will be sampling a huge array of these tiny tasty bites. I can't think of a better way of bringing people together and encouraging conversation!

So, whatever the true origin of tapas, and if you choose one or many, enjoy them like the Spanish do - with a glass of wine and a relaxed attitude!

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
Floridita Tapas
3219 Broadway
New York, NY 10027
646-755-9355
212-662-0225
 

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A Jewel in Hell's Kitchen

 

By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 

 
 
 
Turkish cuisine is largely the heritage of Ottoman cuisine, which can be described as a combination of Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Balkan cuisines.
 
 
The Ottomans fused various culinary traditions of their realm with influences from Middle Eastern cuisines, along with traditional Turkic elements from Central Asia (such as yogurt), creating a vast array of specialties and many with strong regional associations.
In researching Turkish cooking, I found one common denominator - the beauty in the simplicity of their basic cooking techniques. The food is not veiled under heavy sauces or covered by the overuse of herbs or spices…and in the taste the main ingredient comes to the forefront and the other flavorings is a 'hint' in the background.

Of the spices, lemony sumac, pepper, allspice, cinnamon and paprika powder are the most common. A favorite garnish is a drizzle of melted butter with a little paprika and perhaps a dash or two of cayenne. Onions play an important role in the dishes. Garlic, currants, tomatoes or even yoghurt add another dimension to flavoring possibilities.

 
 
The Turks of historical times led a nomadic life, dependent on agriculture and on the breeding of domestic animals. So, to dine on Turkish food is to dine on centuries old recipes. Ancient Greeks introduced wine cultivation in Anatolia, eastern Turkey.

The Persians introduced sweets, sugar, and rice. Skewered and roasted meats, the famous shis-kebab, show the nomadic heritage; as do flatbreads which are baked upon an overturned griddle called a sac. The sac is similar to a flattened wok.

 "Yogurt" is a Turkish word, her most famous contribution to world cuisine. Yogurt made its way north to Bulgaria and Eastern Europe during the Ottoman occupation. Olive oil production is thousands of years old and part of the whole Mediterranean culture.

 
 
In Topkapi, the sultan's palace in Istanbul, chefs perfected these dishes with specialized recipes. Chefs would spend whole careers refining recipes such as pilafs, milk puddings, and desserts. Certain villages were known for producing chefs who would work in the palace.

As a result of this imperial cuisine, the general population had a raised expectation and appreciation for excellent food. This appreciation still continues today.

Though there is no singular food or method that can be instantly identified with Turkish food as in 'pasta' with Italy and 'sauces' with France, it is interesting to note that typically meat in small quantities is cooked with vegetables for flavor as well.

Turkish Cuisine is definitely a Jewel in New York City's Hell's Kitchen. It's a charming and cozy little place with great quality food, and many have enjoyed pre and post theater dining here for generations. The décor is colorful; there are many kitschy trinkets that adorn the walls, colorful table cloths to the point of too colorful but in a way add to the ambience - which is friendly, inviting and relaxed.

The service is great, a very friendly staff eager to explain the menu and tell you of their nightly specials. Order the spicy hummus and falafel (the BEST I've ever had - crunchy on the outside & creamy in the middle) - it is TOP notch. The warm flat bread is amazing. Try their appetizer platter. Their lamb and chicken entrees are always consistent - tender and spiced to perfection; the combo grill is my favorite. Don't miss out on the desserts, they are not on the menu, but the servers will bring you a tray of choices to choose from (the Baklava is so good here).

Turkish Cuisine
631 9th AveFrnt
New York, NY 10036
(212) 397-9650
www.turkishcuisinenyc.com
  Visiting NYC and wondering where to eat? Perhaps Ms. Kwan has an answer for you



Pan Asian Eats on the Upper West Side In NYC

By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 

 
 
 
 
 
When humans were at the hunter- gatherer stage, cooking was very simple - kill it, throw it on the fire along with anything that was found that day. Spices and cooking equipment were rather simple and since then, cooking has become an art form and yet still remains an essential part of our everyday lives.

Many Asian cultures share the practice of gathering the family together to mingle or celebrate over a big meal; the variety of cultures of Asia each developed their own ethnic cuisine through the interaction of history, environment, and culture. Culinary historians identified 3 main styles in Asian cultures that roughly represent the main types of traditional Asian cooking:

Southwest style is comprised of cuisines from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Burma. In Persian-Arabian culture, the eating of nan (or flat bread) became common, along with mutton, kebabs (from Turkish cooking), usage of hot peppers, black pepper, cloves, and other strong spices, ghee (a butter oil) became a staple in this dietary culture.

Through the teachings of Hinduism, cows were used only for their milk and not for meat. In addition to rice, chapati (made from wheat or barley) is also a main component of the diet, and beans also play an important part in meals.

Northeast style is comprised of cuisines from China, Korea, and Japan. This tradition developed to highlight using fats, oils, and sauces in cooking.

In the northeast dietary culture, the foods, spices, and seasonings go beyond being simple products as they are also used as medicines to promote a long and healthy life. In addition, food became associated with many religious customs, and many northeast Asian cultures used food as symbolic offerings to worship their ancestors.

Chinese cuisine has become the most well-known of all Asian cooking, with numerous styles based on region. The most basic disparity being between northern and southern styles of Chinese cuisine is that Southern dishes highlight freshness and tenderness, and while due to the colder climate - Northern dishes are somewhat oily and the use of vinegar and garlic is more popular.

 
 
Photos by Shanna Ravindra
In contrast, Japanese cooking came to highlight the frequent use of deep-frying (i.e., tempura, etc.) using vegetable oil or on the contrary, raw foods (i.e., sushi and sashimi). In Korea, much of the tradition cuisine is centered on grilling or sautéing and the use of hot chili spices (i.e., kim chi, etc.).

Southeast style is comprised of cuisines from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Viet Nam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei. The traditional emphasis in this region is on fragrant and lightly-prepared foods, using a subtle balance of quick stir-frying, steaming, and/or boiling, supplemented with distinct spices and seasonings, including citrus juices and herbs such as basil, cilantro, and mint. Also, while northeastern cuisines emphasize using soy sauce in nearly everything, many cultures in the southeast substitute fish sauce, along with galangal, lemon grass, and tamarind for extra flavor.

In comparing the three cuisines with each other, they noticed that curries are very important to the cuisines of the southeast and southwest, and less in the northeast. Southwestern curries are generally based on yogurt, and the curries of the southeast are generally based on coconut milk. Rice is a staple starch in all three areas. In addition to rice, southwestern cuisines are supplemented with a variety of leavened and unleavened breads while southeast and northeast cuisines add noodles made from rice, egg, or potatoes. Garlic and ginger are used in all three areas, and chilies are much more common in the southwest and southeast.

With all of this in mind, comes Pan Asian Cuisine - which consists of foods across the entire East Asian Region. The menu offerings at Asia Kan are typical dishes from Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, and Japan.

Their menu adheres to some original recipes and use authentic ingredients to deliver a balance of remarkable flavors.

Asia Kan is ornamented with colorful Buddha paintings, dark wooden tables, and dark leather banquettes that are quite comfy. The staff is extremely friendly and extra attentive. The menu is a fantastic collection of very tasty offerings, although some items are sauce-heavy and predictable Chinese/Thai-influenced dishes, like pad Thai and roast duck, it's the Japanese dishes that are quite popular.

Flavorful starters include tasty hamachi kama, grilled yellowtail drizzled with ponzu sauce; beef Negimaki, grilled miso cod, and the citrus octopus ceviche. Hamachi Kama is the grilled collar of the yellowtail, and at Asia Kan, they do it just to my liking, it is tender and juicy in every bite and best dipped in a ponzu sauce and eaten with a bowl of rice and some seaweed. Don't be put off, many like to chew on the bones.

Their sushi assortment is excellent, there are over 40 rolls to choose from, including the Chef's Special which is spicy tuna, shrimp tempura with tobiko outside and the Wasabi which is salmon, tuna, yellowtail, avocado, cucumber with wasabi tobiko and red tobiko outside - YUMMY.

They have a fabulous cocktail menu plus various sakes to accompany your meal … try the lounge downstairs - it's nice, cozy and dimly lit …

 
Visiting NYC and wondering where to eat? Perhaps Ms. Kwan has an answer for you:

Mae Kwan

Asia Kan
710 Amsterdam Ave
New York, NY 10025
(212) 280-8878
 
 

Ciao mein?

By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 

 
 
   
Chow Mein is a combination of vegetables - mostly celery and onion, but also bean sprouts, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, and mushrooms -- in a cornstarch -thickened sauce, mainly seasoned with soy sauce and served on fried noodles, topped with any number of protein add-ons.

Chop Suey is also a mixture of vegetables, with the same protein additions, but served on rice instead of noodles.

There is a common perception that both of these dishes were invented by a Cantonese immigrant in the mid-late 1800's in trying to produce a Chinese dish appetizing to westerners.

The Cantonese cook stir-fried whatever vegetables were available, added some meat or chicken, and served it on a plate of steamed rice.

He aptly named it, chop suey, which is the English pronunciation of the Cantonese words "tsap seui" ("tsa-sui" in Mandarin) which means "mixed pieces".

Chow Mein and Chop Suey may not have started out as the same dish, but ultimately they were just about the same thing in New York's Chinese-American restaurants and the rest of America. Real Chow Mein wasn't very common to non Asians in New York until the revival of Cantonese food (Hong Kong style) in the 1980s.

The Chinese-American dish that many are familiar with deviates from the original. Instead of a pancake of pan-fried wheat noodles, crunchy on the surface but soft in the center, American Chow Mein is a topping of crunchy deep-fried noodles.

Neither are exactly the same as their authentic Chinese counterparts, but they do have a history. According to my research, the idea of combining leftover vegetables and noodles into a single, stir-fried dish originated in Toisan, a rural area south of Canton.

So, the origins of chop suey may actually lie in the countryside of southern China. Many of the original immigrants to the United States were from this region, making it not so far fetched that they naturally prepared the type of food they were familiar with.

Chow Mein originated in Northern China, where wheat is a staple crop. But not all fried noodles are alike, some are lightly heated in the wok, while others, particularly in Guangdong province and Hong Kong, are fried in bunches in oil until they're browned and crispy on the outer edges but still soft in the middle and topped with a stir-fried and sauced vegetable combination, with or without meat, poultry or seafood plus the varieties of chow mein are as numerous as the regional cuisines.

 
 
Great NY Noodletown has been around for as long as I can remember, serving authentic Cantonese cuisine, Hong Kong style roasted meats, a variety of congee, an array of exceptionally prepared "over rice" dishes. Most come here primarily for the noodles - whether its noodle soups, lo mein or pan fried noodles.

The noodle soups are cooked to order in a vat of boiling water. You have a choice in the type of noodles ranging from thin to broad noodles. Also there's a wide selection of toppings for your noodle soup such as wontons, shrimp dumplings, seafood, and roasted meats.

The restaurant's decor is something reminiscent of the mid-80's with wood tables and minimal decorations. By all means, this is a hole in the wall and serves up some of the best Cantonese food found in Chinatown, don't expect anything fancy in presentation, it's rustic, homestyle cooking.

The prices are pretty easy to digest as well. It is awfully bright so, for those of you stumbling in from those dark pubs and night clubs for a bite (yes, they are open until 3 AM) be warned!

The service is mediocre at best, but the food comes fast, in this very casual and straight-forward atmosphere.

Here at Great NY Noodletown, you can't go wrong with the Hong Kong Style pan-fried noodles a.k.a real chow mein and they have also have chop suey on the menu among many simple dishes with lots of flavor.

We know the Chinese have been feasting on noodles for approximately 2000 years, since the Han dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD). Some believe that the Italians got their first taste of pasta when Marco Polo brought it back from his long trek across China in the 13th century, but some Italians say they had pasta before that.

Marco Polo described a food he had in China similar to "lagane", Medieval Latin for a thin crepe or fine sheet of dough (the term eventually evolved to lasagna). But lagane, first mentioned in 1st century AD, was not boiled like pasta at the time, although there were some similarities, it cannot be considered pasta.

Then a discovery in 2005, of a well preserved bowl of millet noodles dating back 4000 years ago turned up - was this proof that China invented pasta before Italy? Then there is some argument over who originally came up with the idea of mixing water and flour to create pasta.

The Arabs claim to have been the first to use dried pasta, as a means of preserving flour during their journeys across the desert. However, durum wheat, and thus pasta we know it today, was introduced by Arabs during their conquest of Sicily in the 8th century, predating Marco Polo's travels to China by about 6 centuries - and durum wheat was not known in China until later times.

   
Your head spinning yet? So, who really invented pasta … will it ever be settled? Perhaps not, but can we all just agree that we love oodles of noodles? Like Italian pasta, Asian noodles vary in width - they can be thick as coffee stir sticks or thin as toothpicks.

When it comes to length, however, they are usually served long and uncut as long noodles symbolize a long life in Chinese tradition. Pasta and noodles have co-existed for centuries - maybe we don't need to change chow mein to ciao mein after all...

   
Visiting NYC and wondering where to eat?

Perhaps Ms. Kwan has an answer for you?

Mae Kwan

Great NY Noodletown
28 Bowery, (At Bayard St)
New York, NY 10013
Phone: (212) 349-0923
   
 
 

A Place to Eat: Café Noir

By Mae Kwan
Restaurant and Food Specialist

 
 
 
Café Noir has been a neighborhood institution for years, located in Soho for over 10 years, it has always maintained a varied crowd, with its Mediterranean ambience and reputation for eclectic world music spinning into all hours of the night, the beat goes on at this part bistro, part tapas bar with fantastic Mediterranean offerings of big and small plates.

Mediterranean food is found within the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea and vary from region to region. The countries of Morocco, Egypt, Italy, Spain, Syria and Greece all owe their prosperity to their seafarers who followed the trade routes to the Far East and beyond.

Morocco is known for its use of dried fruits, while Egypt offers (fava bean porridge), eaten as a standard breakfast meal, made with fava beans stewed with ground coriander, cumin, garlic, lemon, and topped with hard-cooked egg, cilantro and olive oil.

A favorite dish in Syria is cold yogurt soup. Greek cuisine boasts octopus salad as a specialty - just to name a few.

Here are some facts I have come across in my research:

Olive oil is a common staple. Olive trees are found throughout Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Turkey and other Mediterranean countries. Seafood is very prominent in many dishes and used throughout the all regions. Olive oil is believed to promote longevity. 21 countries border on the Mediterranean Sea. Eastern Mediterranean dishes typically consist of grilled meats, breads, hummus, and falafel (fried balls made with fava beans, chickpeas and spices).

The Mediterranean Diet is a heart-healthy eating plan combining elements many of Mediterranean-style cooking. Obviously, eating habits of the Mediterranean people have been influenced by a number of ancient world powers.

From the Phoenicians to Alexander the Great, the Arabs to the Romans, the Turks to the Venetians - just about everyone has thrown something into the international melting pot that is Mediterranean cuisine.

 
 
Nowadays, Mediterranean cuisine encompasses three distinct areas - North Africa (Morocco), Eastern Mediterranean (Turkey, Lebanon, Syria, Israel, Greece and Egypt) and Southern Europe (France, Spain and Italy). Now, do you see why many Mediterranean recipes contain such wonderful interaction of flavors?

Here at Café Noir, you will find an array of Mediterranean choices centering on Spanish, French and Moroccan, remember to pick your poison, whether it is the overflowing ceramic pitchers of Sangria, the Mojitos or the Caipirinhas be sure to try the seafood paella, Serrano ham and manchego, gambas al ajillo, the grilled calamari and the cous cous royale amongst other mouth-watering items on the menu.

When the warm weather hits, the bar area tend to overflow onto the street. They leave their front doors open and the crowds tend to gather and chat at the windows. There is always a neighborhood vibe about that, people mingling and interacting, flowing and all-encompassing and can become quite the Soho scene.

Most patrons tend to congregate and ham it up with the DJ, but for those who venture beyond the bar area will discover sexy, cozy and romantic alcoves with leopard-print banquettes, stucco arches, very dimly lit with tin lanterns.

Although this has been an institution for many years, I will say this, it has been a "hit or miss" in terms of service - at times it is outstanding and at times not so great. If you can deal with that, then this institution is worth a visit ...

Café Noir
32 Grand Street
New York, NY10013
212-431-7910

Visiting NYC and wondering where to eat? Perhaps Ms. Kwan has an answer for you? Ms. Kwan reviews are not limited to NYC as she's well traveled and could be in your city. Looking for somewhere to eat or something different to cook? Stop by Mae's page.